Tag Archives: tobacco pipe restoration

Peterson – Donegal Rocky 999

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I’m down to the last few from the lot I picked up, I was drawn to this lot because of the Donegal’s its one of my favorite lines from Peterson, this is the first 999 I’ve gotten my hands on and I can see why its so popular with Peterson collectors, the shape alone is appealing but the comfort in hand is what sold me. I have parted with many from this lot but the Donegal’s are at home here.

The Restoration

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 She was in good, lightly smoked condition, the biggest issue was a crack in the bead but thankfully the piece was still in place. The stem was oxidized and the P logo was half buffed flush with the stem surface, light chatter and a little rim build-up. The silver band would need a bit of shining up as well.

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The chamber had seen very little use, it would not need reaming, a quick  scrub with EverClear  and Q-Tips would do the trick. The original bowl coating was still in great shape, it looked almost new.

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Like the pipes chamber the draught, mortise and stems airway needed very little cleaning. Using EverClear, Q-Tips and stiff/soft pipe cleaners I cleaned the internals until my finial pipe cleaner came out as it went in.

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I now gave the rim, stummel and silver band a wipe down with Method Wood For Good Polish to remove the old oils, dirt and tarnish.

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With the stummel clean I could now address the crack in the bead. I cleaned the area to be repaired with EverClear and a Q-Tip and let dry. I first applied Gorilla Glue to the crack with a toothpick, using an old charge card wedged in the recess I slowly moved the cracked portion back into place.I held the piece in place until the glue set. Once set I left the repair  to dry for an hour or so.

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After dry time I could now remove any excess glue, using folded 400, 1000 and 1500 sandpaper I carefully sanded away the excess, cleaning the area with alcohol to remove the fine sanding dust. I now re-stained the recessed portion of the bead with Fiebing’s black  leather dye, removing the excess stain with an alcohol dampened Q-Tip.

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The stummels finish was worn and the repaired area was lighter from the work done. I mixed Fiebing’s dark brown and red leather dye together with a little EverClear to lighten the stain bit and applied a few coats to the stummel with a brush, hitting it with a Bic lighter to set the stain. I used an alcohol dampened rag to remove the excess.

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Now to shine the band up. I taped off the shank with painters tape to keep the compound from overlapping and darkening the shank. I buffed the band with brown tripoli back to a shine. The stummel was now ready for the wheel.

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With the summel complete and waiting to be buffed I could now concentrate on the stem oxidation, I applied non-bleach Soft Scrub to the stem and left aside so the Soft Scrub could penetrate the oxidation. Once the Soft Scrub turns from white to a brownish color its time to scrub vigorously with a rag until all oxidation has been removed, adding more Soft Scrub as needed. ( Holding the stem under natural light will help to see if all oxidation has been removed )

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The stem could now be sanded and polished. I tapped off the bit end of the stem with painters tape so my more abrasive sanding would remain in one area. To remove the light chatter I sanded with 800 and 1000 grit sandpaper wet and micro-mesh pads 1500-2400 wet then 3200-4000 dry. I removed the tape and sanded the whole stem with the remaining micro-mesh pads 6000-12000 dry.

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Before attempting to reapply the logo I buffed the stem with blue compound to remove the fine sanding blemishes.

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I used an alcohol dampened Q-Tip to remove the oils and compound from the P logo area. The bottom of the logo was still recessed but the top portion was buffed flush, the remaining top of the P was more of a faint outline. Using white enamel nail polish and paintbrushes for nail art ( gotta love having women in the house ) I attempted to reapplied the P logo numerous times to no success, my hands and eyes are not what they used to be, so my wife stepped in and reapplied the P, its damn close in my opinion , she left it aside to dry before I put it on the wheel.

Complete

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I taped off the silver band and buffed the stummel with a few coats carnauba and a micro-fiber hand buff, buffing the stem with blue compound and carnauba.

Happy  Collecting, Restoring and Puffing

Tim.

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Savinelli Roma 614

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I’m down to the finial few from the pipe lot I picked up. Savinelli I can’t say enough, just a great smoking pipe and this one more to add. Savinelli Roma 614 a smaller pipe then I would typically puff but very comfortable clenched in jaw while working on more pipes.

The Restore

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A great looking pipe if you can see past the dirt, grime and oxidation. The nomenclature is well stamped, the stem logo buffed almost clean off which is nothing new with this lot and the softy bit didn’t save this one completely from chatter, just a couple of tooth impressions that would need attention. The rim and chamber looked good just a little rim burn on the right side.

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I started with the chamber and my PipNet reamer, starting with the smallest and working up to the largest the chamber would except, reaming the cake back to a suitable thickness.

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The rim had a light build-up and a burn to the right of the bowl. I applied Method Wood For Good Polish to the rim and allowed it to penetrate the old tars and oils. Once the build-up softens it would be removed with Q-Tips and makeup pads.

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Next the stummel and stem internal cleaning. Using EverClear, Q-Tips, stiff/soft pipe cleaners and shank/mortise brushes, I cleaned the airways and chamber until my finial pipe cleaner came out as it went in. I then stuffed the chamber and mortise with cotton balls and added EverClear to pull out the more stubborn tars, oils and lessen any ghosting.

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The stem was heavily oxidized, I applied a generous amount of non-bleach Soft Scrub and left it aside to penetrate the oxidation. Once the soft turns from white to a brownish color its time to scrub vigorously with a rag adding more Soft Scrub as needed ( Holding he stem under natural light will help to see if all oxidation has been removed. ) I would repeat this process a few times to remove all the oxidation .

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The bit portion of the stem had a few shallow tooth impressions but the rest of the stem looked good. I taped off the bit end of the stem with painters tape to keep my sanding in one area. I removed the impressions with micro-mesh pads 1500-3200 wet and 4000-3600 dry, then I removed the tape and sanded the whole stem with 6000-12000 dry.

Complete

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I finished her up on the wheel with a few coats of carnauba and a micro-fiber hand buff, buffing the stem with blue compound and a few coats of carnauba.

Thanks For Taking A Look.

Tim.

Presumably, A Majestic C.G.F. Meer Lined (“SANDY”)

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I believe this to be a Majestic C.G.F. made pipe, the name “SANDY” is stamped on the right side of the shank, below that Made In France, there is no other stamping on the stummel. There is a C.G.F. logo on the stem, I have researched the C.G.F. logo and it seems to point to the Majestic company out of Paris France, there is very little info on Pipedia other then a few advertisements and examples of there pipes ( Majestic info ). I’m unsure if ” SANDY” refers to the pipes finish or a pipers name, I know there were mail order gimmicks back in the day where you could have a pipe personalized but I’m unsure if this is one of them.

Restoration

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The overall condition of the pipe was good. The meer lining was crack free, the stem chatter free and the C.G.F. logo was legible, it would seem the mad buffer did not get to this one. The chamber was a little caked and one noticeable fill .

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I jumped right in on the internal cleaning of the stummel and stem. The chamber being Meer I didn’t go with my PipNet reamer, instead I cleaned the chamber with EverClear, Q-Tips and 1000 grit sandpaper to remove the stubborn leftovers. The draught, mortise and stem were cleaned using EverClear, Q-Tips and stiff/soft pipe cleaners but this well used pipe would require a retort to get a deeper clean. After the retort I did one more good internal cleaning with EverClear, Q-Tips and pipe cleaners until my finial pipe cleaner came out clean.

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The right side of the bowl and shank had noticeable filler that needed to be removed. I applied Method Wood For Good Polish to the filler and left it to soften. Once the filler softened up I removed it with a pick and straight pin. I cleaned the area to be refilled with alcohol and a Q-Tip, filled the sand pit with Gorilla Glue and briar dust wiping away the excess with a alcohol dampened rag and left to dry. Once dry I lightly sanded the filled areas with a 3200 grit micro-mesh pad, tapping off the shank so not to disturb the  nomenclature with my sanding. I now touched up the new fills with a dark stain marker, let dry and removed the excess stain with an alcohol dampened Q-Tip.

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In the process of filling the sand pits I inadvertently removed some of the original stain surrounding the repair. I used a makeup pad and EverClear to remove the rest stain from the stummel and re-stained the stummel with a dark brown touch-up marker, allowing dry time and removing the excess with an alcohol dampened rag. Sandy was now ready for the wheel. The stem was oxidation free and chatter free, I cleaned the stem inside and out with EverClear and would just need a good buffing.

Complete

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 Before buffing the stummel I lightly polished the meer rim with worn micro-mesh 4000-12000. I finished the stummel on the wheel with white diamond, a few coats carnauba and micro-fiber hand buffing. Buffing the stem with blue compound and a few coats carnauba.

Thanks For Taking A Look.

Tim.

Refreshing A Cassano

One of the last few from the lot I picked up a few weeks ago. Cassano a brand I’m unfamiliar with, from what I could find it has mixed reviews, some consider it an under rated brand and others think its a poor quality make. Having not puffed the pipe myself I can only go by what I see before me and to be honest it looks to be a well made pipe, thick walls, proper drilling and a nice overall finish. To find a larger pipe at a price that won’t brake the bank is a rarity these days, so for a few bucks ( $60-$80 New  )I think you’d have an enjoyable smoking and looking pipe. Pipedia has a bit of history on the brand Cassano.

The Refresh.

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The pipe was in beautiful shape when I received it, very lightly smoked, smoked once I’d say and not to the bottom bowl. The chamber still has its bowl coating and the stem is free of chatter ( rubber bits always help ). The nomenclature is crisp but the stem logo has been partially buffed off, like many of the other pipes in this lot. It would seem there is a mad buffer out there, not only do they use a very firm hand when buffing but they also like there carnauba as well, bucket loads were used to buff these pipes.

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I cleaned the internals of the stummel and stem with EverClear, soft pipe cleaners and Q-Tips. Cleaning until my finial pipe cleaner came out as it went in.

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The stem was in great condition with the exception of a few bubbles on the button that would be easily corrected with a bit of sanding. I ran the button through the various grits of micro-mesh to remove the imperfections. The damage done to the stem logo was irreversible it was buffed flush with the stem surface, not leaving an indentation to be refilled. The rest of the stem would just need a buff and shine to bring back its luster.

Complete.

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Finished up on the wheel with a few coats carnauba and a micro-fiber hand buff, buffing the stem with blue compound and carnauba.

Thanks For Dropping In

Tim.

Savinelli SherWood Rock Briar 504

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One more from the lot. Savinelli one of my favorite brands, beautiful pipes, that smoke great and at a price an average Joe can afford. I have quite a few in my collection, from my more expensive Autograph 4 to my less expensive Trevi each one preforms wonderfully.

The Restoration.

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The pipe had a few issues, oxidation, chatter and the stem logo was buffed clean off. The edge of the rim towards the shank was sanded or buffed down unevenly compared to the rest of the rim. A ton of carnauba wax was used and caked in every nook and cranny. On the plus side the nomenclature is crisp and the pipe seemed pretty clean.

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The use of both the PipNet and the CastleFord reamer would be used once again to ream back the cake in this smaller chambered pipe.

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Next I cleaned the internals of the stem and stummel with EverClear,  stiff/soft pipe cleaners, Q-Tips and makeup pads, cleaning until my final pipe cleaner came out as it went in. The internals were surprisingly clean.

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The stummel was over waxed, every crevice was caked in the stuff. Using Method Wood For Good Polish, a children’s toothbrush and a straight pin I began to remove the excess wax.

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I removed the little build up on the rim with Method and a Q-Tip. The rim was uneven, it looked as if the previous owner tried to remove a rim burn and left it unfinished. To even things out I sanded the higher portions of the rim with 400, 800 and 1000 grit sandpaper until I had a uniformed shape. I re-stained the rim with a light brown touch-up marker and removed the excess with a alcohol dampened rag.

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The stem was heavily oxidized, I applied a generous amount of non-bleach Soft Scrub and left it aside to penetrate the oxidation. Once the Soft Scrub turns from white to a brownish color its time to scrub vigorously with a rag until the oxidation is removed, adding more Soft Scrub as needed. Holding the stem under natural light will help to see if all oxidation was removed. I tried heat to remove some of the deep tooth impressions using a Bic lighter (moving the flame at all times never leaving it in one spot to long) a few raised but a couple of stubborn deeper impressions would need filling.

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I mixed thick black CA glue and charcoal powder together to fill in the deep impressions hitting it with accelerator to set the patch, I left it overnight to cure. The following morning I taped off the bit/lip area so my more abrasive sanding would remain in one area. I sanded with 400, 800 and 1000 grit sandpaper to blend the repair.

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I now ran the stem though the various grits of micro-mesh pads.

Complete.

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I finished up on the wheel with white diamond, a few coats carnauba and a micro-fiber hand buff. Buffing the stem with blue compound and carnauba.

Thanks For Taking A Look.

Tim.

Peterson – Donegal Rocky 264

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My latest estate lot had quite a few goodies and I found myself totally engulfed in my work, pipe after pipe, only pausing to take photos of my process. The next subject to hit my work desk, a Peterson Donegal Rocky 264. A more petite Pete then I would typically collect but I’ve always had a soft spot for the Donegal Rocky series. I have a new found respect for the Lovat shape, a mini version of the Canadian shape that I so love.

The Restoration  

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Lightly smoked like many of the pipes in this lot, the chamber was free of any real build up and its silver band was tarnished. A little oxidation was present, as well as some light chatter, the Peterson’s “P” logo was present and accounted for, it seems it did not meet its demise as its counterparts did in this lot.

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I tag-teamed the chamber with my PipNet and Castle Ford reamer, taking what little cake there was back to a suitable level. I then cleaned the internals with EverClear, stiff/soft pipe cleaners, makeup pads and Q-Tips, cleaning until my final pipe cleaner came out as it went in.

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I gave the stummel and silver band a wipe down with Method Wood For Good Polish with a rag to remove the oils, dirt and debris. I left it aside to dry.

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While the stummel dried I mixed Fiebing’s red and dark brown leather dye together, more red then brown and added a little EverClear to lighten the stain.

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I applied a few coats of the stain with a brush and hit it with a Bic lighter to set the stain, removing the excess stain with an alcohol dampened rag.

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After cleaning the silver band it was dull and had a few faint surface scratches. I taped off the shank with blue painters tape and buffed the band with tripoli, bringing back its shine.

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I used caution when removing the oxidation from the stem, the “P” logo was in fine shape. Many of the pipe stem logos in this lot were buffed clean off or at least partially missing. I applied non-bleach Soft Scrub to the oxidized areas of the stem and let the Soft Scrub penetrate the oxidation. Once the Soft Scrub turned from white to a brownish color I scrubbed the area with a Q-Tip so not to disturb the logo. I usually use a rag to remove the oxidation but in fear of loosing the logo I went slow with a Q-Tip, I would have to repeat this a few times until all oxidation was removed.

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There was some light chatter at the bit/lip area of the stem I used 400, 800 and 1000 grit sandpaper to remove the chatter. I then ran the stem though the various grits of micro-mesh.

Complete

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 Finished up on the wheel with white diamond, a few coats carnauba and a micro-fiber hand buff. Buffing the stem with blue compound and carnauba.

Thanks For Stopping In

Tim.

 

Quick Clean Up of 2 Petersons

Peterson.

Donegal Rocky XL90 & Standard XL305

 

Its always nice to add a couple more Petes to the collection and in decent condition to boot. I enjoy a challenge as much as the next guy but its also nice to do a leisurely standard cleaning.

The Clean Up.

 

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 For the price they were both in great lightly smoked condition. A little oxidation , chatter and the silver band on the Donegal was tarnished.

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I started with my PipNet reamer and reamed back the cake to a suitable thickness. The Donegal chamber was perfect, still had the bowl coating. The 315 was a little different the bowl coating was still there but there was an indentation on the side of the chamber that was caused by careless reaming in the past. I sanded the area to smooth out the damage as much as possible, in the long run it will not affect the smoke .

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Next I cleaned the internals with EverClear stiff/soft pipe cleaners and Q-Tips. Very clean internals on both pipes, if you were to judge the pipes by there mortise alone you’d think they were un-smoked.

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With the internals clean I now gave the stummals a wipe down with Method Wood For Good Polish and found a new use for the polish in the process it also cleans the tarnish from  silver bands. I’m amazed by this stuff more and more each time I use it.

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Before removing the oxidation I tried a little heat to remove some of the chatter. ( holding the stem above the flame of a Bic Lighter moving the flame at all times so not to burn the stem)  Both stems responded pretty well, the XL90 responded the best leaving only minimal marks, the 305’s upper side was left with very little chatter after the heat , the under side  didn’t respond as well and would still need sanding,

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With the bulk of the chatter removed I moved onto the oxidation, I applied a generous amount  of non-bleach Soft Scrub and left it aside to allow the Soft Scrub to brake up the oxidation, once the Soft Scrub turns from white to a brownish color its time to scrub vigorously with a rag adding more Soft Scrub as needed. ( Holding the stem under natural light will help to see if all oxidation has been removed)

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I now ran the stems thought the various grits of micro-mesh. The XL90 didn’t need much attention but the 305 needed a bit more work, I taped off the bit end with blue painters tape so my more abrasive sanding would remain in one area. I sanded with 400,800 and 1000 grit sandpaper wet to remove the rest of the chatter I then ran it though the micro-mesh pads.

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During my process of removing the oxidation I also inadvertently removed the P from the XL90 stem , I taped off the P originally but the tape was no match for the Soft Scrub. My white Rub’n Buff dried up so gold would have to do, using a toothpick I applied the Rub’n Buff and allowed it to dry, I then lightly polished with 8000 and 12000 micro-mesh pads.

Complete.

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I finished up on the wheel with a few coats of carnauba and micro-fiber hand buffing. Buffing the stem with blue compound and carnauba.

Thanks For Taking A look.

Tim.

The Tinder Box (Canadian)

The Tinder Box

I received this Tinder Box a few months back and wasn’t sure what way to go with it. The shape is one I have become accustomed to but this particular pipe was covered in pink putty. I originally attempted to fill the pits with Gorilla glue and briar dust but I wasn’t happy with the results. I played around with a few different rustication’s and finally found one I was happy with. 

 

The Restoration

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Other then the fills the pipe was in lightly smoked condition. A little rim build up , oxidation and chatter.

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I reamed back the cake to a suitable thickness with my PipNet reamer. The chamber was free of any defects.

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Next I moved on to the internals cleaning with EverClear , stiff/soft pipe cleaners , Q-Tips and makeup pads. Cleaning until the final pipe cleaner came out as it went in.

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I removed the rim build-up using Method Wood For Good Polish, I applied a generous  amount to the rim and allowed it to penetrate  the build-up. Once the build-up softens its easily removed with makeup pads and Q-Tips. Once the rim was free of debris I could see  more of the dreaded pink filler, this helped in my decision making and rustication would be more appealing and easier then filling multiple fills.

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Next the stem oxidation removal, I applied a generous amount of non-bleach Soft Scrub and allowed it to sit so the Soft Scrub could penetrate the oxidation. Once the Soft Scrub turns from white to a brownish color its time to scrub vigorously with a rag until the oxidation has been removed , adding more Soft Scrub as needed. Holding the stem under natural light will help to see if all oxidation has been removed.

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With the oxidation removed from the stem and the chatter waiting to be addressed , I moved onto the stummel and the rustication. I tried a few different methods before finding what I liked . Using a burr bit set I began to carve the briar with a medium round burr working in different directions overlapping my previous pass. I used a diluted stain mix , a few drops of Fiebing’s dark brown dye and 10 ml of EverClear applying it with a brush hitting it with a Bic lighter in between coats, removing the excess stain with an EverClear dampened rag. Before hitting the wheel I applied Howard’s butcher block conditioner and left it for an hour to penetrate, removing the excess with a clean rag. I added a silver band not for repair purposes but for cosmetic, I’m usually stingy with my bands but in this case it was more aesthetically pleasing.

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With the stummel complete and waiting for the buffer, I could now finish the stem. I started with the chatter at the bit end , using 800, 1000 and 1500 grit sandpaper wet, then running though the various grits of micro-mesh pads. I use thin clear plastic as a shaft/stem divider. Like the kind found in the windows of children’s toy packaging.

Complete.

 

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I finished up on the wheel with a few coats carnauba and a micro fiber hand buffing. Buffing the stem with blue compound and carnauba.

Thanks For Taking A Look.

Tim.

Lorenzo – Not A Typical Restoration

Lorenzo Firenze Monterosa

Lorenzo pipes I’ve always been a fan of there shapes and thick walls but not so much with the use of filler a little overboard in the putty department. In the past pipes with an overwhelming amount of filler or to beat up to save the shape I’ve opted to rusticate instead of sanding and filling. I had a few in my collection but recently gave one away to my father, so when I received this thick walled Lorenzon I knew it was a prime candidate to be carved and rusticated. Its been a few years since I’ve rusticated a pipe and I couldn’t wait to get into it..

The Restoration.

 

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The pipe was in poor condition when received , it appeared the previous owner attempted to band the cracked shank or removed an existing band. The shank was cracked in multiple areas straight though to the mortise. The shank was sanded leaving an uneven fit between shank and stem. The stem had tooth impressions, oxidation and the button was chewed. The chamber was thick with crumbling cake and rim tar and char. The stummel had quite a few large fills.

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I started with the chamber reaming back the cake to a suitable thickness. The odd shaped chamber led me to use both the Pipnet and Castleford reamers. Starting with the smallest attachments and working up to the largest the chamber would accept.

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With the chamber reamed I now concentrated on the caked rim. I applied a generous amount of Method Wood For Good Polish with a Q-Tip to the rim and left it upside down on a makeup pad to allow the polish to penetrate the build-up, once the build-up is softened it is easily removed with a makeup pad and Q-Tips.

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I now worked the stem/shank portion , sanding the stem/shank flush , the nomenclature due to my sanding and the previous owners sanding was almost nonexistent.

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I now banded the cracked shank with a wide band, I worked the band part way on then heated the band with my Wagner’s heat gun and pressed the band into place using the banding tool..

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I cleaned the internals using EverClear, stiff/soft pipe cleaners and shank brushes, cleaning until the final pipe cleaner came out as it went in.

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I decided to rusticate the stummel instead of filling multiple large fills. In the past I have craved stummels on less desirable pipes or pipes that are too far damaged . I drew out the pattern to be carved on the stummel and using a rotary burr set I carved the stummel, the thick walls of the Lorenzo pipe allowed me to go deeper into the briar.

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Before staining the stummel I sanded the smooth areas with 400,800 and 1000 grit sandpaper. Using Fiebing’s Leather dye I stained the stummel. I mixed black Fiebing’s with a little EverClear and applied it to the rusticated area of the stummel using a Q-Tip. Finally I mixed red Fiebing’s with a little EverClear and applied it to the smooth area of the stummel, I now left it for a few hours to dry, I removed the excess stain with an EverClear dampened rag.

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With the stummel ready to hit the wheel I moved onto the stem. I applied a generous amount of non-bleach Soft Scrub to the stem and left it aside to penetrate the oxidation. Once the Soft Scrub turns from white to a brownish color is time to scrub vigorously with a rag adding more Soft Scrub as needed. Holding the stem under natural light will help to see if all oxidation was removed.

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After cleaning the stem I worked on the chewed button and tooth impressions, I removed some of the shallow impressions with a flat sided needle file , the deeper impressions would need filling. I rough sanded the area of repair with 400 grit sandpaper wiping down with an EverClear dampened rag. I filled the impressions with thick black CA glue and allowed to dry. I mixed thick black CA glue and charcoal powder together to form a paste to rebuild the button, applying the paste with a toothpick to the button and hitting it with accelerator to set ,I left it over night to cure. Using needle files and sandpaper I reformed the button .

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After banding the shank the stem / shank fit was off leaving a small gap between stem and shank. Using a small block of wood drilled to fit the tenon loosely , I lightly sanded the stem flat. I was able close the gap but not completely , the draw is air tight but if held up to the light you can still see a small gap.

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I now ran the stem thought the various grits of sandpaper and micro-mesh pads. Sanding the stem with 800, 1000 and 1500 grit sandpaper wet and micro-mesh 1500-3200 wet and 3600- 12000 dry.

Complete.

 

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I finished up on the wheel with white diamond , a few coats of carnauba and a micro-fiber hand buffing. Buffing the stem with blue compound and carnauba.

Thanks For Taking A Look.

Tim.

 

A Pipe For Poppy.

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Custombilt Oom Paul.

My daughter lovingly calls my father Poppy they have been inseparable since her birth 11 years ago , my fathers pretty incredible ,give ya the shirt off his back, drop everything to help in anyway and give ya his last dime if you needed it. Almost a year ago we had a scare, while hanging out at our house Dad suffered a mini-stroke. Doctors said it wasn’t as severe as other strokes but nevertheless it scared the hell out of all of us. It took him sometime to get back to the way he was before. Now doctors say hes as healthy as a horse ,so he has decided to take up the pipe once again after a thirty year hiatus. He picked a pipe from the wall to start with a bent Grabow with a spoon stinger , one of the first if not the first pipe I had redone years ago. I then told him I would like to redo a Custombilt that was similar to a Tom Howard he had liked. So that brings me to A Pipe For Poppy , a Wally Frank era Bilt Oom Paul. Shes been in the to do rack going on three years I would start but lose interest and put her back but now I had a reason to complete it. I gave him the pipe yesterday and his eyes lit up, needless to say he was very happy with finished pipe.

The Restoration.

 

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The pipe had been started and stopped a few times since I received it, so the reaming and internal cleaning had already been done previously. The chamber was free of pitting, there were a few tooth impressions and oxidation on the stem.The previous owner had carved a P into the bottom of the stummel. The pipe is for my farther and my daughter calls him poppy so the P is fitting but too tacky for my taste.

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My attention was drawn first to the P caved in the bottom of the stummel,  luckily it wasn’t to deep. Starting with 220 grit sandpaper I removed the bulk of the self carving, then moving to 400, 800 and finished with 1000 grit sandpaper.

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I lightly sanded the stummel with 800 grit sandpaper then gave the stummel a wipe down with an EverClear soaked rag to remove the fine sanding dust.

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Before hitting the buffer I applied a coat of Howard’s Butcher Block Conditioner , I applied using a Q-Tip then leaving it aside to penetrate, removing the excess with a clean rag.

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I applied a generous amount of non-bleach Soft Scrub to the stem and  left it aside for the Soft Scrub to soften the oxidation. Once the Soft Scrub turns from white to brownish color its time to scrub vigorously adding more Soft Scrub as needed until all oxidation has been removed, holding the stem under natural light will help to see if all oxidation has been removed.

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With the oxidation removed I focused on the tooth impressions , the rest of the stem was in good shape so I taped off the bit/lip area of work with blue painters tape so my sanding would remain in this area. I removed the deeper impressions with a flat sided needle file. I removed the rough file marks with 400,800 and 1000 sandpaper wet.

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I now ran the stem though the various grits of micro-mesh 1500-2500 wet and 3200-12000 dry ,polishing to a shine.

Complete.

20160525202327~220160525202354~220160525202422~220160525202443~220160525202452~220160525202507~2 I finished up on the wheel with white diamond , carnauba and a micro-fiber hand buffing. Buffing the stem with blue compound and carnauba.

I’m looking forward to the first smoke.

Thanks for everything Dad.

Thanks For Taking A Look.

Tim-